Smocked Christmas Wreath Construction

If you have participated in this tutorial for a smocked Christmas wreath I hope you have completed the smocking.



If you are just reading this, here is the links to the previous posts.



http://texassmockingcompany.blogspot.com/2009/09/smocked-christmas-wreath-tutorial-part.html


http://texassmockingcompany.blogspot.com/2009/09/smocked-christmas-wreath-tutorial-part.html



http://texassmockingcompany.blogspot.com/2009/09/smocked-christmas-wreath-tutorial-part_11.html






Back Smocking:

• To help ease in the construction you will need to back smock row 11 with a very loose cable stitch. Do not tie off the ends of your threads at the ends of the rows.

• Also you need to back smock rows 1-2 with a Chevron Stitch. Again do not tie off the end. Leave about a 2 inch tail.
  

Construction:

• After wreath has been completely smocked and back smocked, remove pleating threads from the outside of the wreath (rows 6-12).
  

• Unpick (do not cut) the knots on the pleating threads on the inside holding row and rows 1-5. Re-knot the ends of each pleating thread so you don’t accidentally pull the thread out).

• Pin the wreath to a blocking board or ironing board and fan out into a complete circle .

• With the open ends facing you, look at your smocking design. To achieve a seamless wreath the smocking design needs to be continuous. This is done by unpicking your smocking threads until the design matches up. Do not worry if you are unpicking an inch or more of smocking. The wreath is 90 inches of fabric.
  


• Unpick the smocking until the design is a mirror image on both sides. See the example. Unpick one more stitch on the right side and tie off smocking threads to the back. Left side threads are still loose.

• Unpick back smocking to match up with front. Tie off the Back Smocking.
  

• Cut off knots on the ends of the pleating threads and pull out pleats until they also match up with the smocking on the front.

• Trim the un-smocked ends down for a 1 inch seam allowances.
  
  
  
  
• Fold un-smocked ends under and reposition pins and fan out the wreath again.

• Steam wreath with a steam iron. Let dry.
  
  
  

Back of the Wreath:

• The back of wreath should be one piece of fabric 5”x45”.

• Thread your pleater with 2 half space rows. Run the Back fabric through your pleater.

• Unpick the pleats on the ends until you have a 1/2" seam allowance. Fold the outer edge (unpleated side ) down a 1/2 " and press.



• Mark the center line of the fabric by creasing a fold or by using a small pin.
  



• Pull up pleating threads until fabric measures 18 inches end to end.
  


• Remove smocked wreath from the blocking board.
  


• With right sides together pin back of wreath to the back. Pull up pleating threads of wreath if needed. Match up ends (end of smocking with the pleating thread on the back) and center lines. Distribute pleats evenly.
  


• Stitch the two pieces together with a 3/8 inch seam allowance. Outside edge is still open.
  
  


• Return the wreath back to the blocking board with right side up. Pin wreath into a circle. Steam if needed.
  
  
  


• With wreath ends facing you double check your continuous smocking design. Thread a needle with each of your loose threads on the left side. Take one more smocking stitch joining the two sides together completing the design. Pull threads to the back and knot off securely.
  
  
  


• Open wreath up. Tie each of the remaining pleating threads together. Do not pull threads too tight and distort the circle.
  
  
  
• Place the 10 inch craft ring on the inside of the wreath. This will stop the wreath from warping after it is stuffed.
  

• Turn wreath to the back side. Fold seam allowances back, Pin the outside folded edge of the back of the wreath to the loose cable row (Row11) that you back smocked. With matching thread hand sew the two sides together.
  

Stuffing the wreath:

• Stuff the wreath with polyester batting. I fluffed the batting first by pulling it apart into little clouds.
  
  
  
  


• Work from back towards the openings. I found the end of a wooden spoon helps to get the batting to the back. Craft ring should be in the middle of the batting.
  
  


• When stuffed to your desired fullness slip stitch the back opening closed.

Finishing the wreath:

• The center of the smocking design is a perfect place to add you choice of decorations. I used Christmas bulb buttons. Each bulb was sewn on separately then a ribbon was threaded through holes.
  

•Five plastic rings are sewn to the back to help hang the wreath with out it tipping forward.




And finally, if you do not like the area where your your seamless smocking joined together Just cover it with a pretty bow. :-)

Outstanding In My Field

Let me rephrase that..........I am out, standing in my field! :-)

This little guy has been interrupting my smocking and sewing time. But he is cute and the weather has been great so I do not mind.

I have a lawn chair under one of the trees. It is cool enough I need a sweatshirt but sunny enough I need a hat and sun glasses. So while he is grazing I am sketching out new smocking designs and pattern ideas.

Life is good! :-)

Jasper

Halloween was a little more exciting for my daughter this year.



Meet Jasper, her 6 month old miniature horse.




It was just by coincidence that we picked him up on Halloween. But he made a wonderful Halloween present. :-)

Here he is with his mom before we picked him up.

It was a mini rodeo for a little while. A mini rodeo for a mini horse seems fitting! :-)







She just wasn't as enthused about going Trick or Treating after he arrived. I wonder why? :-)

She hasn't quit smiling!

Changing a needle while pleating

Debbi, you must be reading my mind! :-) I had already taken all the photos to explain how to change a needle when I read your comment.


Okay lets get to the instructions...............You are happily pleating a way when you hear the most dreaded of sounds to a smocker..........Crunch! :-(



Of course the broken or bent needle is usually in the middle of your pleating project. Before I would remove everything from the pleater and start over.


That was until I learned how to replace a needle in the middle of my pleating from Judith Adams at a SAGA convention a few years back. Yeah Judith!




The first thing to do after you hear the crunch is to clear the pleats off the ends of the needles. Okay just to be honest, the first thing I do after I hear a needle break is to talk to my pleater. I'll let you fill in the words..........

Elevate the front of the pleater with a spool of thread or a book.

Carefully remove the front roller bar from your pleater.

Without pulling all of the pleater needles off the pleater, carefully work the broken or bent needles out of the fabric.



If the needle broke in to pieces, make sure you find all the pieces.

As a matter of habit, I always knot one end of my pleating threads when I am threading my needles.

Slowly pull the unknotted end of the thread through the previous pleats. If you do not knot your threads then carefully pull only one strand of the thread through.

Remove the broken or bent needle and dispose of properly. I use an old medicine bottle with a Janet....... I mean child proof lid.



Re thread the pleater thread with a new needle.

Look closely at the needle holes left in the fabric. They will be important in getting the new needle in place.

Take your new threaded needle and weave it through the needle holes on the last pleat. Take note at the direction of the curves on the needle.

Push the tip of the needle into the needle slot and then lay the needle down into the corresponding grove.

The needle is resting on top of the rest of the pleats.

Here is another view.

Double check that the other needles have not come out of their needle groves. Place the roller bar back onto the pleater and secure it. It will be a tight fit. That is okay, just don't force it.

Take your pleater off the spool of thread now.

Slowly turn the handle of your pleater and continue pleating.

When your pleated fabric comes off the pleater there will be a few missed pleats where you changed the needle. That is okay. The pleating row above and below can show you where the pleats are. You could also back smock the area of missed pleats if you want.

Front of fabric

Back of fabric

I hope this helps the next time you have a broken needle.

Changing a needle on your pleater.

The post is being written for Kelly, who is having trouble changing a needle on her pleater.


I decided to share all the pictures I was taking for her because if she was having a problem then maybe someone else was also.


I am using a Salley Stanley pleater so there may be some slight differences with your pleater.

• The first step is to tilt the front of your pleater backwards. You can use a book or as shown here, a spool of thread.
  

• Next you will need to loosen the screws and turn the tab that holds the front bar. You do not need to remove the screws. If your pleater has pins then you can just remove the pins and place them somewhere where you can remember.
  
  
  

• Next remove the front bar.
  

• Your pleater is still tilted . If not your needles will all fall out. Been there done that. Don't want to do it again! :-)
  
  
  

• This is what the pleater looks like with out the front bar.
  
  
  
  
  

• Another close up.
  
  
  

• To remove the needle, hold the pleater needle by the end and lift up and out. If you are removing a broken needle you will need to find the broken tip of the needle and remove it also.
  
  
  
• Note the direction of the curve of the pleater needle.
  
  
  

• You must use a pleater needle that has been designed for your brand of pleater.

• While holding the end of the pleater needle, place the tip of the needle into the needle grove. Do not push or use force. Then lay the pleater needle down into the needle grove.

• Repeat the process until you have place all your pleater needle where you want them to be.
  
  

• After you are done, place the top roller bar back on. Check to see you have it going the right direction. The bar should roll back into place.
  
  

• Tighten the screws or replace the pin. Double check that everything moves freely by turning the wheel of your pleater. You should be able to turn the wheel with one finger.
  
  
  
  You can also find information on customizing your pleater under the archives.

http://texassmockingcompany.blogspot.com/2009/06/customizing-your-pleater.html

Sew Beautiful #127

I just received my copy of the newest Sew Beautiful. Issue # 127.

As usual it is a wonderful issue just packed with eye candy. The cover is a embroidered needle case from Wendy Schoen.





I just took a 2 day class with Wendy at the SAGA convention. She told me she was thrilled that she made the cover. She deserves it!




There is also a pictorial by Maja Clayton of Maja's Heirlooms. And my friend Helen Lively has three dresses in this issue. Each one is just gorgeous!





In this issue I have a light weight denim jumper with a shaped smocked window. Inside the shaped window is my picture smocked "Cowboy Santa". The smocking plate can be found on page 63 of this issue.





The Jumper is a Martha Pullen A-line in a size 5.









Here are some construction photos I took while working on the outfit.



The jumper has a double ruffle. The lining was lengthened by 1 1/2 inches. One ruffle was sew to the jumper and another ruffle to the lining.

A dress with a hole in the middle of it.

Post script: I realized after posting this picture of the Cowboy Santa that this was the first version of what was in Santa's bag. I originally had a puppy looking out of the bag. I decided later that there were too many eyes looking at me. I replaced the puppy with wrapped gifts. Sorry for the confusion. ~j

I was so excited when Kathy B. told me they photographed the little model sitting on Santa's lap. Thanks Kathy! :-)

Halloween 2007

So now we come to Halloween 2007.


She is getting into the swing of things now. She was a witch that year.





Her dress BSY was from a royal blue bridal satin. She has a dress overlay of that sheer sparkly stuff at JoAnn Fabric.








The overlay was made from the same pattern. I also made a hood in the back of the dress overlay. But she would not put the hood up except at home. She also had a royal blue witch hat but she wouldn't wear that either.

But the dress had a twirl factor which is important. :-)